Lawnmower Blenny

Denis Cheong Zylantha · CC BY-SA 4.0 — Wikimedia Commons (cropped)

Saltwater Fish · Blennies

Lawnmower Blenny

Salarias fasciatus

Comical algae grazer with plenty of personalityBeginner

Lifespan
4-6 years
Size
10-13cm (4-5in)
Social needs
One per tank unless the system is large
Time
Low
Cost
Medium
Diet
Herbivore, marine algae

Overview

What is this animal?

  • The Lawnmower Blenny is a hardy, characterful herbivore named for its habit of grazing algae off rock and glass.
  • With perching pectoral fins, expressive eyes, and constant activity, it is a popular beginner reef fish.
  • It is reef-safe and useful for nuisance algae, but it needs an established tank with a real algae supply.
  • Keepers must be ready to supplement food once the algae is grazed down.

Temperament

  • Peaceful toward most tankmates but territorial toward other blennies and similar bottom-dwelling fish.
  • Keep only one lawnmower blenny per tank unless the system is large, to avoid squabbling.
  • It is an amusing, interactive fish that perches openly, hops between rocks, and shifts colour with mood.
  • It generally ignores corals and invertebrates, making it a reliable, peaceful reef community member.

A good fit for

  • Beginners wanting a hardy, fun fish
  • Reef tanks with nuisance algae
  • Keepers who will supplement with nori
  • Community reefs needing a peaceful grazer

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Starves in tanks lacking enough algae
  • Watch for a pinched, concave belly
  • Keeping two blennies together causes fights
  • Adding to a brand-new, algae-free tank

Enclosure

Minimum 110 litres (29 US gallons)

Must be housed alone. One per tank unless the system is large

  • House in a mature reef of at least 110L (30 gallons) with plenty of live rock covered in algae film and perches to rest on.
  • An established tank with diatom and green algae growth provides natural grazing.
  • Keep temperature 24-27C (75-81F), salinity 1.024-1.026, pH 8.1-8.4, and ammonia and nitrite at zero.
  • A tank that is too clean or too new will leave this grazer underfed.

Check your enclosure

Supplies

Setup

  • Tank, stand and sump
  • Return pump and powerheads
  • Protein skimmer
  • Reef lighting
  • Rock and sand
  • Salt mix, refractometer and test kits
  • Quarantine tank

Ongoing

  • Dried marine algae (nori) sheets
  • Magnetic or suction veg clip
  • Spirulina flake and algae pellets
  • Frozen mysis shrimp
  • Frozen enriched brine shrimp
  • Marine flake or small pellet
  • Small thawing cup and strainer

Safe substrate: Aragonite sand · Dry or cured live rock · Bare bottom

Work out the cost

Care routine

Daily

  • Check salinity, temperature and flow
  • Feed
  • Head-count and look everyone over
  • Top up evaporation with fresh water

Weekly

  • Offer nori on a clipevery 2 days
  • Service the skimmer and filter socksevery 3 days
  • Check the belly profile
  • Clean the glass
  • Test the water

Monthly

  • Water changeevery 2 weeks
  • Calibrate the refractometer
  • Check salt, RO/DI and reagents

Less often

  • Deep-clean pumps and powerheadsevery 3 months
  • Replace RO/DI filter mediaevery 6 months

Vet: Quarterly belly-profile review — every 3 months

Top resources for more info

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Diet

  • Primarily a herbivore, it grazes hair algae, diatoms, and film algae from rock and glass.
  • Once natural algae is depleted, supplement with dried nori, seaweed sheets, spirulina flakes, and algae-based pellets.
  • Many lawnmower blennies slowly starve in tanks without enough algae, so a sunken belly signals the need to feed more vegetable matter.
  • Some will eventually accept meaty frozen foods as well.

Health

  • Hardy and relatively disease-resistant compared with many marine fish, but it still benefits from quarantine and stable water.
  • The most common cause of death is starvation in tanks with insufficient algae rather than illness.
  • Watch the belly profile: a pinched, concave stomach means it is not getting enough food.
  • Provide constant grazing material and supplemental nori to keep weight and energy up.

Is your enclosure big enough?

Minimum volume110 litres (29 US gallons)
CompanyMust be housed alone. One per tank unless the system is large

Is this urgent?

In a reef, stability matters more than any single target number. A parameter moving fast does more damage than a parameter sitting slightly off.

Go now

Any detectable ammonia or nitriteWater change now with matched, mixed and aerated saltwater. Stop feeding. Directly toxic, and a marine system has less margin than a freshwater one.
Now
Temperature or salinity has moved sharplyCorrect slowly, over hours, not minutes. Check the heater and the top-off. The speed of the change does the damage. Correcting fast repeats the injury in the other direction.
Now
Rapid gilling, or a fish hanging in the flow breathing hardIncrease aeration and check temperature and salinity. Warm water holds less oxygen, and a heater failure shows up here first.
Now

Today

White spots, or a fine dusting like icing sugarIdentify which parasite before treating. Most reef tanks cannot be treated in place. The two common parasites look similar and need different handling; velvet can kill a tank in days.
Today
Corals closed for more than a day, or receding tissueTest alkalinity first, and compare it against the last reading rather than a target. Unstable alkalinity is the most commonly cited coral killer, and a swing shows up in the trend, never in a single point.
Today
A new fish added without quarantine now looks unwellRemove it to a separate system today if you can. Nearly every wipeout in a reef tank traces back to a skipped quarantine.
Today

Quarantine every new animal, including corals and inverts. It is the single practice that separates a reef that lasts from a reef that restarts.

This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it — and the time to find one is before you need one.

What it really costs

Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.

Bedding and substrate

In a marine system the rock and the sand are life support, and how you start them decides the first six months.

Safe

Aragonite sandThe standard marine substrate. Buffers pH and hosts the biology.
safe
Dry or cured live rockDry rock avoids importing pests but takes longer to mature. Cured rock is faster and riskier.
safe
Bare bottomCommon in high-flow systems. Easier to keep clean, but it removes a large part of the biological buffer.
safe

With a caveat

Deep sand bedsPowerful nutrient processing when they work and a sulphide release when they are disturbed. Choose shallow or deep deliberately, not by accident.
with a caveat
Uncured live rockIt will cycle the tank for you, and it will also bring in whatever was living in it.
with a caveat

Never

Silica play sandDoes not buffer, and it is commonly blamed for feeding diatom blooms in a new tank.
never
Any rock or decor of unknown originMetals and phosphate leach for months and are almost impossible to trace once the tank is running.
never

This is our general list for saltwater fish. We have not built one specific to Blennies yet.

My kit says 0.25 ppm. Is that dangerous?

A liquid kit measures total ammonia, but only the un-ionised fraction is really toxic, and that fraction is governed by pH and temperature — each whole pH unit multiplies it roughly tenfold. So the same reading can be nearly harmless in one tank and lethal in another; this works out which one you are in.

Compare with other animals

The same axes for every animal, side by side — the way the guides are written makes that a fair comparison rather than two articles.

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Blennies, side by side

Same axes, same care guides — the honest way to choose between types.

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