Royal Gramma

Hectonichus · CC BY-SA 3.0 — Wikimedia Commons

Saltwater Fish · Basslets

Royal Gramma

Gramma loreto

Purple-and-gold peaceful reef bassletBeginner

Lifespan
5-7 years
Size
8 cm (3 in)
Social needs
Best kept singly; territorial with own kind
Time
Daily feeding; weekly testing/changes
Cost
Medium
Diet
Carnivore (mysis, brine, marine pellets)

Overview

What is this animal?

  • The Royal Gramma is a small basslet split vividly into magenta-purple at the front and golden-yellow at the rear.
  • Hardy, peaceful toward unrelated fish, and reef-safe, it is a good colourful beginner marine fish.
  • It darts among rockwork and often hangs upside-down beneath ledges.
  • It comes from Caribbean reef caves and appreciates plenty of hiding spots.
  • A well-fed Royal Gramma is shy at first but soon becomes confident, claiming a favourite cave and defending it with mostly harmless bluster against passing tankmates.

Temperament

  • Peaceful toward unrelated species, the Royal Gramma is territorial mainly around its chosen cave, where it bluffs and posts largely harmless threats.
  • It is reef-safe and ignores corals and invertebrates.
  • Keep one per tank unless the system is very large with widely separated territories, as they fight their own kind and the similar-looking Royal Dottyback.
  • With peaceful tankmates and good cover it is a confident, characterful resident.

A good fit for

  • Beginners wanting vivid colour
  • Peaceful community reef tanks
  • Smaller marine setups
  • Keepers who enjoy cave-dwelling behaviour

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Keeping multiples in small tanks (fighting)
  • Confusing it with the aggressive Dottyback
  • No caves or hiding spots causes stress
  • Open-top tank leads to jumping

Enclosure

Minimum 110 litres (29 US gallons)

Must be housed alone. Best kept singly; territorial with own kind

  • A cycled 110L (30 gal) tank with abundant live rock, caves, and overhangs lets it feel secure.
  • Maintain salinity 1.024-1.026, temperature 24-27°C (75-80°F), pH 8.1-8.4, and nitrate under 20 ppm.
  • A lid is essential, as they readily jump from open tanks.
  • Provide line-of-sight breaks with rock so it can establish a home base without stress.
  • The more caves and crevices available, the bolder and more visible it becomes, since it always wants an escape route close at hand.

Check your enclosure

Supplies

Setup

  • Tank, stand and sump
  • Return pump and powerheads
  • Protein skimmer
  • Reef lighting
  • Rock and sand
  • Salt mix, refractometer and test kits
  • Quarantine tank

Ongoing

  • Frozen mysis shrimp
  • Frozen enriched brine shrimp
  • Small sinking marine pellet
  • Frozen chopped seafood blend
  • Vitamin or HUFA soaking supplement
  • Turkey baster for target-feeding near rockwork
  • Small thawing cup and strainer

Safe substrate: Aragonite sand · Dry or cured live rock · Bare bottom

Work out the cost

Care routine

Daily

  • Check salinity, temperature and flow
  • Check the lid
  • Feed
  • Head-count and look everyone over
  • Top up evaporation with fresh water

Weekly

  • Service the skimmer and filter socksevery 3 days
  • Check each fish still has a cave
  • Clean the glass
  • Test the water

Monthly

  • Water changeevery 2 weeks
  • Calibrate the refractometer
  • Check salt, RO/DI and reagents

Less often

  • Deep-clean pumps and powerheadsevery 3 months
  • Replace RO/DI filter mediaevery 6 months

Vet: Quarterly review with a territory check — every 3 months

Top resources for more info

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Diet

  • The Royal Gramma is a carnivore that in the wild eats zooplankton and small crustaceans.
  • In the aquarium offer frozen mysis and brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood, and a sinking marine pellet, fed once or twice daily.
  • Most specimens feed readily within days of settling in.
  • A varied meaty diet keeps the purple and gold colours strong.
  • Feed modest amounts to avoid fouling the water, and make sure faster tankmates do not take all the food first.

Health

  • Royal Grammas are hardy and relatively disease-resistant in stable water.
  • The main risks are marine ich and bacterial infections following stress, poor water quality, or aggression from tankmates or a rival Dottyback.
  • Quarantine new arrivals and keep nitrate low and parameters steady.
  • Watch for hiding, refusing food, or white spots as early warning signs.
  • A secure, cave-rich tank reduces stress and keeps this basslet healthy for years.

Is your enclosure big enough?

Minimum volume110 litres (29 US gallons)
CompanyMust be housed alone. Best kept singly; territorial with own kind

Is this urgent?

In a reef, stability matters more than any single target number. A parameter moving fast does more damage than a parameter sitting slightly off.

Go now

Any detectable ammonia or nitriteWater change now with matched, mixed and aerated saltwater. Stop feeding. Directly toxic, and a marine system has less margin than a freshwater one.
Now
Temperature or salinity has moved sharplyCorrect slowly, over hours, not minutes. Check the heater and the top-off. The speed of the change does the damage. Correcting fast repeats the injury in the other direction.
Now
Rapid gilling, or a fish hanging in the flow breathing hardIncrease aeration and check temperature and salinity. Warm water holds less oxygen, and a heater failure shows up here first.
Now

Today

White spots, or a fine dusting like icing sugarIdentify which parasite before treating. Most reef tanks cannot be treated in place. The two common parasites look similar and need different handling; velvet can kill a tank in days.
Today
Corals closed for more than a day, or receding tissueTest alkalinity first, and compare it against the last reading rather than a target. Unstable alkalinity is the most commonly cited coral killer, and a swing shows up in the trend, never in a single point.
Today
A new fish added without quarantine now looks unwellRemove it to a separate system today if you can. Nearly every wipeout in a reef tank traces back to a skipped quarantine.
Today

Quarantine every new animal, including corals and inverts. It is the single practice that separates a reef that lasts from a reef that restarts.

This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it — and the time to find one is before you need one.

What it really costs

Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.

Bedding and substrate

In a marine system the rock and the sand are life support, and how you start them decides the first six months.

Safe

Aragonite sandThe standard marine substrate. Buffers pH and hosts the biology.
safe
Dry or cured live rockDry rock avoids importing pests but takes longer to mature. Cured rock is faster and riskier.
safe
Bare bottomCommon in high-flow systems. Easier to keep clean, but it removes a large part of the biological buffer.
safe

With a caveat

Deep sand bedsPowerful nutrient processing when they work and a sulphide release when they are disturbed. Choose shallow or deep deliberately, not by accident.
with a caveat
Uncured live rockIt will cycle the tank for you, and it will also bring in whatever was living in it.
with a caveat

Never

Silica play sandDoes not buffer, and it is commonly blamed for feeding diatom blooms in a new tank.
never
Any rock or decor of unknown originMetals and phosphate leach for months and are almost impossible to trace once the tank is running.
never

This is our general list for saltwater fish. We have not built one specific to Basslets yet.

My kit says 0.25 ppm. Is that dangerous?

A liquid kit measures total ammonia, but only the un-ionised fraction is really toxic, and that fraction is governed by pH and temperature — each whole pH unit multiplies it roughly tenfold. So the same reading can be nearly harmless in one tank and lethal in another; this works out which one you are in.

Compare with other animals

The same axes for every animal, side by side — the way the guides are written makes that a fair comparison rather than two articles.

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Basslets, side by side

Same axes, same care guides — the honest way to choose between types.

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