Bicolor Blenny

Brian Gratwicke · CC BY 2.0 — Wikimedia Commons (cropped)

Saltwater Fish · Blennies

Bicolor Blenny

Ecsenius bicolor

Two-toned charmer with a big personalityBeginner

Lifespan
4-6 years
Size
8-10cm (3-4in)
Social needs
One per tank unless a bonded pair
Time
Low
Cost
Medium
Diet
Omnivore, algae-leaning

Overview

What is this animal?

  • The Bicolor Blenny is a hardy, comical fish, dusky blue at the front and orange at the back, with expressive eyes and a habit of perching and peeking from rocks.
  • Its personality and toughness make it a popular beginner marine.
  • It is reef-safe and helps graze film algae, though it needs supplemental feeding once natural algae thins.
  • Easy to keep and full of character, it suits new and experienced reef keepers alike.

Temperament

  • Generally peaceful but territorial toward other blennies and sometimes similar small fish, occasionally nipping at tankmates that invade its space.
  • Keep one per tank unless you have a bonded pair.
  • It is reef-safe with corals and invertebrates, though the rare individual may nip coral polyps if underfed.
  • Mostly it is an entertaining, characterful fish that perches openly and interacts with its keeper.

A good fit for

  • Beginners wanting a hardy, characterful fish
  • Reef tanks with film algae to graze
  • Keepers who will supplement with nori
  • Peaceful community reef systems

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Starves in tanks lacking enough algae
  • Known jumper; needs a secure lid
  • Two blennies together usually fight
  • Rare underfed individuals may nip corals

Enclosure

Minimum 110 litres (29 US gallons)

Must be housed alone. One per tank unless a bonded pair

  • House in a reef tank of at least 110L (30 gallons) with plenty of live rock providing algae, perches, and a hole or crevice it can claim as a home base.
  • A mature tank with algae film suits it well.
  • Maintain temperature 24-27C (75-81F), salinity 1.024-1.026, pH 8.1-8.4, and ammonia and nitrite at zero.
  • A secure rock retreat gives this perching fish confidence and frequent visibility.

Check your enclosure

Supplies

Setup

  • Tank, stand and sump
  • Return pump and powerheads
  • Protein skimmer
  • Reef lighting
  • Rock and sand
  • Salt mix, refractometer and test kits
  • Quarantine tank

Ongoing

  • Dried marine algae (nori) sheets
  • Magnetic or suction veg clip
  • Spirulina flake and algae pellets
  • Frozen mysis shrimp
  • Frozen enriched brine shrimp
  • Marine flake or small pellet
  • Small thawing cup and strainer

Safe substrate: Aragonite sand · Dry or cured live rock · Bare bottom

Work out the cost

Care routine

Daily

  • Check salinity, temperature and flow
  • Feed
  • Head-count and look everyone over
  • Top up evaporation with fresh water

Weekly

  • Offer nori on a clipevery 2 days
  • Service the skimmer and filter socksevery 3 days
  • Check the belly profile
  • Clean the glass
  • Test the water

Monthly

  • Water changeevery 2 weeks
  • Calibrate the refractometer
  • Check salt, RO/DI and reagents

Less often

  • Deep-clean pumps and powerheadsevery 3 months
  • Replace RO/DI filter mediaevery 6 months

Vet: Quarterly belly-profile review — every 3 months

Top resources for more info

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Diet

  • An algae-leaning omnivore that grazes film algae and diatoms but also takes meaty foods.
  • Offer dried nori, spirulina flakes, algae pellets, and frozen mysis and brine shrimp one to two times daily.
  • A varied diet weighted toward vegetable matter keeps it healthy and reduces any temptation to nip corals.
  • Supplement well once natural tank algae is grazed down to prevent a hollow belly.

Health

  • Hardy and disease-resistant relative to many marine fish, though quarantine and stable water are still sensible.
  • Most losses come from starvation in algae-poor tanks or from jumping rather than from illness.
  • Watch the belly profile and appetite; a pinched stomach signals the need for more food.
  • Provide a secure lid, as bicolor blennies are capable jumpers given any open gap.

Is your enclosure big enough?

Minimum volume110 litres (29 US gallons)
CompanyMust be housed alone. One per tank unless a bonded pair

Is this urgent?

In a reef, stability matters more than any single target number. A parameter moving fast does more damage than a parameter sitting slightly off.

Go now

Any detectable ammonia or nitriteWater change now with matched, mixed and aerated saltwater. Stop feeding. Directly toxic, and a marine system has less margin than a freshwater one.
Now
Temperature or salinity has moved sharplyCorrect slowly, over hours, not minutes. Check the heater and the top-off. The speed of the change does the damage. Correcting fast repeats the injury in the other direction.
Now
Rapid gilling, or a fish hanging in the flow breathing hardIncrease aeration and check temperature and salinity. Warm water holds less oxygen, and a heater failure shows up here first.
Now

Today

White spots, or a fine dusting like icing sugarIdentify which parasite before treating. Most reef tanks cannot be treated in place. The two common parasites look similar and need different handling; velvet can kill a tank in days.
Today
Corals closed for more than a day, or receding tissueTest alkalinity first, and compare it against the last reading rather than a target. Unstable alkalinity is the most commonly cited coral killer, and a swing shows up in the trend, never in a single point.
Today
A new fish added without quarantine now looks unwellRemove it to a separate system today if you can. Nearly every wipeout in a reef tank traces back to a skipped quarantine.
Today

Quarantine every new animal, including corals and inverts. It is the single practice that separates a reef that lasts from a reef that restarts.

This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it — and the time to find one is before you need one.

What it really costs

Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.

Bedding and substrate

In a marine system the rock and the sand are life support, and how you start them decides the first six months.

Safe

Aragonite sandThe standard marine substrate. Buffers pH and hosts the biology.
safe
Dry or cured live rockDry rock avoids importing pests but takes longer to mature. Cured rock is faster and riskier.
safe
Bare bottomCommon in high-flow systems. Easier to keep clean, but it removes a large part of the biological buffer.
safe

With a caveat

Deep sand bedsPowerful nutrient processing when they work and a sulphide release when they are disturbed. Choose shallow or deep deliberately, not by accident.
with a caveat
Uncured live rockIt will cycle the tank for you, and it will also bring in whatever was living in it.
with a caveat

Never

Silica play sandDoes not buffer, and it is commonly blamed for feeding diatom blooms in a new tank.
never
Any rock or decor of unknown originMetals and phosphate leach for months and are almost impossible to trace once the tank is running.
never

This is our general list for saltwater fish. We have not built one specific to Blennies yet.

My kit says 0.25 ppm. Is that dangerous?

A liquid kit measures total ammonia, but only the un-ionised fraction is really toxic, and that fraction is governed by pH and temperature — each whole pH unit multiplies it roughly tenfold. So the same reading can be nearly harmless in one tank and lethal in another; this works out which one you are in.

Compare with other animals

The same axes for every animal, side by side — the way the guides are written makes that a fair comparison rather than two articles.

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Blennies, side by side

Same axes, same care guides — the honest way to choose between types.

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