
Sterba's Corydoras
Corydoras sterbai
The polka-dot cory that likes it warmBeginner
- Lifespan
- 5-10 years (sometimes longer)
- Size
- 6-7 cm (2.4-2.7 in); females larger
- Social needs
- Shoaling - keep 6+ together, more is better
- Time
- Low-moderate (daily feed, weekly water changes)
- Cost
- Low-Medium
- Diet
- Omnivore (bottom-feeder)
Overview
What is this animal?
- Sterba's Corydoras is a small armoured catfish from the upper Rio Guapore basin on the Brazil-Bolivia border, patterned with rows of fine white-to-cream spots over a dark head and body and set off by warm orange pectoral fins.
- Its defining practical trait is heat tolerance: it does well at ordinary corydoras temperatures but also stays comfortable up at the 28-30C (82-86F) that discus keepers run, which makes it the standard cory for warm-water tanks where the Bronze Corydoras would struggle.
- Virtually all fish sold today are tank-bred, hardy, and genuinely beginner-friendly, provided the basics are met: a shoal of six or more, soft sand, and food that actually reaches the bottom.
- It is often confused with Corydoras haraldschultzi, which reverses the pattern with dark spots on a pale ground; on sterbai the head is dark and the spots are pale.
Temperament
- This is a peaceful, day-active shoaling catfish that must be kept in a group of six or more of its own species.
- In proper numbers they forage in a loose pack, rest in piles, and show the characteristic corydoras eye-wink; kept alone or in pairs they hide and waste away.
- They are the classic bottom-dwellers for discus, cardinal tetras, rummy-nose tetras, and other warm-water community fish.
- Avoid large cichlids or anything big enough to try swallowing them, because the locking spines can lodge in a predator's throat and kill both fish.
- They bother no tankmate and are among the more willing corydoras to spawn in home aquaria, laying adhesive eggs on the glass after cool-water changes.
A good fit for
- Discus and other warm-water community tanks
- Beginners wanting a hardy, long-lived cory
- Tanks with soft sand substrate
- Keepers who enjoy daytime bottom activity
- A first try at breeding egg-laying catfish
Common mistakes to avoid
- Keeping fewer than 6 - they need a shoal
- Sharp gravel shredding their barbels
- Low oxygen at discus-tank temperatures
- Nets - their locking spines tangle and prick
- Salt and copper medications they tolerate poorly
- Treating them as clean-up crew, not feeding them
Enclosure
Minimum 75 litres (20 US gallons) — for a group of 6
Cannot be kept alone. The minimum is 6, and the space above is for that group.
- House a group of six in at least a 75-litre 20-gallon long, and give more floor space for larger groups, prioritising footprint over height because these fish live on the bottom.
- A soft sand substrate is non-negotiable, since sharp or coarse gravel erodes the sensory barbels they feed with.
- Keep the water at 24-28C (75-82F) with tolerance to 30C (86F), pH 6.0-7.6, soft to moderately hard (roughly 2-15 dGH), and low nitrate in a fully cycled tank.
- Furnish with driftwood, plants, leaf litter, and shaded resting spots, and leave open sand for foraging.
- They dash to the surface to gulp air, so keep an air gap beneath a tight-fitting lid.
- Warm water holds less oxygen, so at discus temperatures add extra surface agitation or an air stone.
Supplies
Setup
- Tank and stand
- Filter
- Heater and thermometer
- Substrate, plants and decor
- Liquid test kit
- Dechlorinator and starter supplies
Ongoing
- Sinking wafers or tablets for bottom-feeders
- Algae or spirulina wafers
- Frozen bloodworm, daphnia and brine shrimp
- Untreated aquarium driftwood (essential for clown plecos)
- Courgette, cucumber and spinach for blanching
- Veg clip or a stainless veg skewer
- Feeding tongs or a pipette for target-feeding
- Fine sand substrate for corydoras foraging
Safe substrate: Inert aquarium gravel · Fine, smooth sand · Aquasoil for planted tanks
Care routine
Daily
- Check temperature and equipment
- Head-count and look everyone over
- Sinking food at lights-out
Weekly
- Top up evaporationevery 3 days
- Check belly profiles
- Clean glass and clear algae
- Test the water
- Water change and gravel vacuum
Monthly
- Trim and thin the plantsevery 2 weeks
- Check supplies and reagent dates
- Check the driftwood
- Rinse the filter media
Less often
- Replace chemical filter media (Carbon/Purigen)every 2 months
Vet: Quarterly bottom-dweller review — every 3 months
Top resources for more info
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Diet
- Sterba's Corydoras is an omnivore that must be fed deliberately, never left to survive on leftovers.
- Offer sinking wafers, pellets, and tablets, supplemented several times a week with frozen or live bloodworm, daphnia, and brine shrimp.
- Make sure food gets past faster mid-water fish; feeding after lights-out or dropping food at several spots helps the cories get their share.
- Quiet, slow starvation in busy community tanks is the most common way this species fails.
- Vacuum the sand regularly, because food rotting in the substrate drives the barbel infections that cost them the ability to find food.
Health
- The main preventable problems are barbel erosion and red blotch disease, both driven by sharp or dirty substrate and poor water quality.
- They are sensitive to salt and copper-based medications, so treat at reduced doses or choose catfish-safe alternatives.
- Watch barbel length, breathing rate, and skin condition, and quarantine all new arrivals.
- The orange pectoral spines lock outward under stress; they tangle hopelessly in fine nets and can give a mildly venomous prick, so move these fish with a rigid container or a bag rather than a net.
- Corydoras can also release a stress toxin in cramped transport bags, so bag them in generous water, a few fish per bag, for short journeys only.
- A well-kept sterbai commonly lives 5-10 years and can pass a decade with excellent care, so plan for a long-term resident.
Is your enclosure big enough?
Is this urgent?
In a fish tank the patient is usually the water. Test before you treat — dosing a healthy tank for a disease it does not have makes things worse.
Go now
Today
Soon
Never add a new fish to a tank that is not fully cycled, and never treat blind. A test kit is cheaper than the fish.
This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it — and the time to find one is before you need one.
What it really costs
Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.
Bedding and substrate
Substrate in an aquarium is a filter as much as a floor. Most of the biology lives in and on it.
Safe
With a caveat
Never
This is our general list for freshwater fish. We have not built one specific to Catfish yet.
My kit says 0.25 ppm. Is that dangerous?
A liquid kit measures total ammonia, but only the un-ionised fraction is really toxic, and that fraction is governed by pH and temperature — each whole pH unit multiplies it roughly tenfold. So the same reading can be nearly harmless in one tank and lethal in another; this works out which one you are in.
Compare with other animals
The same axes for every animal, side by side — the way the guides are written makes that a fair comparison rather than two articles.
Catfish, side by side
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