Carpet pythons are semi-arboreal Australasian pythons kept in several regional forms, with jungle and coastal carpets the most common.
Adults are large but slender, with striking gold-and-black patterning in good lines.
They make an excellent step up from a corn snake or ball python: bigger and more alert, but far more manageable than giant constrictors.
A snappy juvenile phase is normal and almost always settles with calm, regular handling.
Housing
An adult needs a secure vivarium of at least 120×60×60cm, and more height is gladly used: sturdy branches or shelf perches let the snake loop and survey, which is how carpets naturally rest.
Juveniles feel safer starting in smaller, cluttered enclosures.
Provide a basking zone around 31-33C over a 24-27C ambient, a large water bowl, and hides at both ends.
Locking doors matter — carpets are strong, curious, and famous for testing enclosure seams at night.
Diet
Feed appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents: weekly for growing juveniles, stretching to every 10-14 days or longer for adults.
Carpets have strong feeding responses and take prey readily.
That same response causes most bites: use a hook or paper-towel tap to signal handling time rather than reaching in at feeding hours.
Obesity is common in adults, so resist the urge to feed an always-hungry snake.
Health
Captive-bred carpets are robust; most issues are husbandry-driven — respiratory infections from cold, damp setups and scale problems from dirty substrate.
Quarantine new animals and source captive-bred only.
Maintain shed-friendly humidity spikes around shed time, and check that sheds come off complete, including eye caps and tail tip.
A 20-30 year lifespan makes the vet-access and estate-planning questions real ones.
Temperament
Expect a defensive, nippy hatchling: this is the breed-typical phase that puts beginners off and rewards patient keepers.
With short, consistent sessions, the large majority grow into calm, confident adults.
Adults are alert and engaged, watching the room from their perch and exploring vigorously during handling.
They are strong for their weight; support the body and keep sessions unhurried.
Most snake worry is about feeding, and most feeding worry is misplaced. Check the guide for this species' normal fast before treating a refusal as illness.
Go now
Open-mouth breathing, bubbles at the nostrils, or an audible whistleGo now. Respiratory infection. Snakes have one functional lung and little reserve.
Now
Cannot right itself, or holds the head and neck in an unnatural twistGo now. Neurological signs are always urgent in a snake.
Now
Today
A regurgitated mealDo not offer food again for at least a fortnight. Check the warm-end temperature today, then call if it happens twice. Usually too cold, handled too soon, or a meal too large. Repeated regurgitation is a different and more serious problem.
Today
Retained eyecaps after a shed, or a ring of stuck shed on the tail tipRaise humidity and provide a damp hide. Call if it is not resolved within a day. Almost always humidity that was too low during the blue phase. A constricting ring costs the tail tip.
Today
Soon
Refusing food for longer than is normal for this speciesLog the refusal and check the species guide. For an adult ball python, a fast of about a month is not in itself a cause for concern, and much longer voluntary fasts are documented. Weigh weekly through it. The weight trend, not the calendar, is what tells you whether a fast matters.
Log it first
This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it — and the time to find one is before you need one.
Can a carpet python eat that?
Reptile diets split hard by species. An insectivore and a grazing tortoise share almost nothing, so check the species guide as well as this list.
Never (15)
AlcoholNo safe amount at any body weight on this site.
never
AvocadoPersin. Fatal to many reptiles.
never
CaffeineCoffee, tea and energy drinks. Cardiac and neurological toxicity at tiny doses for an animal this size.
never
ChocolateTheobromine and caffeine. Small mammals and reptiles cannot clear either.
never
CitrusToo acidic, and it interferes with calcium absorption.
never
Dog or cat foodProtein and vitamin D levels formulated for a mammal. In tortoises it causes irreversible kidney and shell damage.
never
FirefliesLucibufagins. A single firefly has killed adult lizards. This is the most dangerous item on any reptile list and it is the one keepers do not know about.
never
Fish caught from the wildThiaminase and parasite risk for turtles and aquatic species.
never
GarlicSame allium toxicity as onion, and more concentrated by weight.
never
Iceberg lettuceWater with no nutrition. It fills a reptile up in place of food that would have done something.
never
LeekAllium family. Same mechanism as onion and garlic.
never
OnionOrganosulphur compounds damage red blood cells. The whole allium family is out.
never
RhubarbOxalate load high enough to cause acute kidney injury.
never
Salty or seasoned human foodSalt, oil and seasoning. Crisps, chips, seasoned leftovers and processed meat are all out.
never
Wild-caught insectsPesticide residue and parasites, and the identification risk. Captive-bred feeders only.
never
Rare treats (1)
WaxwormsVery fatty. Useful for a underweight animal or for medicating, addictive otherwise. One or two, rarely.
rare treat
Occasional (5)
Bell pepperSafe, low oxalate, and the colour gets a refuser eating. A few small pieces a few times a week.
occasional
Butternut squashWell tolerated and a useful source of vitamin A precursors. Small cubes a few times a week.
occasional
KaleGood calcium, mild goitrogen. Rotate it. Twice a week.
occasional
MealwormsHard chitin shell and a poor calcium ratio. Fine as part of a varied feed, poor as the whole diet. A few, alongside better feeders.
occasional
SpinachOxalates bind dietary calcium, which is the last thing a reptile at risk of metabolic bone disease needs. A very small amount, rarely.
occasional
Everyday foods (6)
Black soldier fly larvaeUnusually high in calcium; one of the few feeders that does not need dusting. Several per feed.
everyday food
Collard greensOne of the best staple greens for herbivorous and omnivorous reptiles. Daily.
everyday food
CricketsA standard feeder. Gut-load them for 24 hours before offering, or you are feeding an empty shell. Sized no wider than the space between the animal's eyes.
everyday food
Dandelion greensExcellent calcium-to-phosphorus ratio and readily taken. Pick away from sprayed ground. Daily, for herbivorous species.
everyday food
Dubia roachesBetter calcium ratio and more meat per insect than crickets, and they cannot climb glass. Sized to the animal.
everyday food
Mustard greensGood calcium ratio; rotate with other greens. Several times a week.
everyday food
That food is not on our list. Reptile diets are narrower than they look — check the species guide, and ask an exotics vet before offering anything unfamiliar.
Dust feeders with a calcium supplement to the schedule in the species guide. A reptile can be eating well and still be starving of calcium.
Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.
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