Reptiles

Ball Python

Python regius

Docile snake that curls into a ball  ·  Intermediate

Ball Python

HCA (talk) · CC BY-SA 3.0 — Wikimedia Commons

Lifespan
20-30 years
Adult size
100-150 cm
Min. habitat
Vivarium 120x60x60cm+
Social needs
Solitary; house singly
Diet
Carnivore (frozen-thawed rodents)
Time
Low-Medium; weekly feed, humidity checks
Cost
Medium

Overview

  • The ball python, from the grasslands and forests of West and Central Africa, is a heavy-bodied, docile snake named for its habit of curling into a tight ball when stressed.
  • Calm and slow-moving, it is widely kept and bred in many morphs, but its humidity needs and tendency to refuse food make it a step up from a corn snake.
  • Ball pythons are long-lived, frequently passing 25 years, so they are a multi-decade commitment.
  • Their shy, security-seeking nature means they need plenty of cover.
  • Well kept, they are gentle pets, but they are often mis-sold as effortless to nervous first-timers.

Housing

  • Provide a secure vivarium of at least 120x60x60cm for an adult, with locking doors.
  • Maintain a warm end of 30-32C and a cool end around 25-26C via a thermostatically controlled heat source, with a gentle nighttime drop.
  • A low-output UVB tube is beneficial though optional.
  • Humidity is important: keep it around 55-65%, rising during sheds, using a large water bowl, substrate moisture and good but not excessive ventilation.
  • Ball pythons feel insecure in open space and need several tight hides and clutter such as branches and foliage; sparse setups cause chronic stress and feeding refusal.

Diet

  • Ball pythons are carnivores fed appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents, around the girth of the snake at its thickest.
  • Thaw and warm prey thoroughly and offer with tongs; do not feed live, which risks serious bite injuries to the snake.
  • Juveniles eat about weekly, adults every one to three weeks.
  • This species is known for going off food for weeks or months, especially in winter, when stressed, or before shedding.
  • In a healthy-weight adult a fast is usually not an emergency, but persistent refusal with weight loss needs a vet.
  • Stable warmth, humidity and ample cover greatly improve feeding reliability.

Health

  • Healthy ball pythons have firm muscle tone, clear eyes, clean nostrils and a complete shed.
  • Low humidity causes retained shed and stuck eye caps, while overly wet, poorly ventilated setups cause scale rot and respiratory infections that produce wheezing or mucus bubbling.
  • Maintaining correct humidity is the central husbandry skill.
  • Watch for mites, mouth rot and obesity from over-feeding.
  • Chronic refusal to eat alongside weight loss, or any open-mouth breathing, warrants an exotics vet.
  • Because they live so long, budget for decades of care and possible veterinary costs.

Temperament

  • Ball pythons are among the most placid snakes, typically slow, gentle and tolerant of calm handling once they trust their environment.
  • When frightened they tuck the head and ball up rather than bite, which is how they got their name.
  • They suit keepers who want a relaxed, easily handled snake.
  • They are solitary and must be housed alone.
  • Cohabiting causes stress, hinders feeding monitoring and risks disease transmission and injury.
  • There is no social need to meet, so individual housing is both simplest and best for their welfare.

A good fit for

  • Keepers wanting a calm, handleable snake
  • Those prepared for a 25+ year commitment
  • People who can maintain steady humidity
  • Owners patient with fussy feeders

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Low humidity causing stuck shed
  • Sparse enclosures causing stress and food refusal
  • Panicking over normal winter fasts
  • Feeding live prey

Is your enclosure big enough?

Minimum floor area7,200 cm² (1,116 sq in) of continuous, unbroken floor
As dimensions120 x 60 x 60 cm
CompanyMust be housed alone. Solitary; house singly

Check your own enclosure against this

Is this urgent?

Most snake worry is about feeding, and most feeding worry is misplaced. Check the guide for this species' normal fast before treating a refusal as illness.

Go now

Open-mouth breathing, bubbles at the nostrils, or an audible whistleGo now. Respiratory infection. Snakes have one functional lung and little reserve.
Now
Cannot right itself, or holds the head and neck in an unnatural twistGo now. Neurological signs are always urgent in a snake.
Now

Today

A regurgitated mealDo not offer food again for at least a fortnight. Check the warm-end temperature today, then call if it happens twice. Usually too cold, handled too soon, or a meal too large. Repeated regurgitation is a different and more serious problem.
Today
Retained eyecaps after a shed, or a ring of stuck shed on the tail tipRaise humidity and provide a damp hide. Call if it is not resolved within a day. Almost always humidity that was too low during the blue phase. A constricting ring costs the tail tip.
Today

Soon

Refusing food for longer than is normal for this speciesLog the refusal and check the species guide. For an adult ball python, a fast of about a month is not in itself a cause for concern, and much longer voluntary fasts are documented. Weigh weekly through it. The weight trend, not the calendar, is what tells you whether a fast matters.
Log it first

This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it — and the time to find one is before you need one.

Can a ball python eat that?

Reptile diets split hard by species. An insectivore and a grazing tortoise share almost nothing, so check the species guide as well as this list.

Never (15)

AlcoholNo safe amount at any body weight on this site.
never
AvocadoPersin. Fatal to many reptiles.
never
CaffeineCoffee, tea and energy drinks. Cardiac and neurological toxicity at tiny doses for an animal this size.
never
ChocolateTheobromine and caffeine. Small mammals and reptiles cannot clear either.
never
CitrusToo acidic, and it interferes with calcium absorption.
never
Dog or cat foodProtein and vitamin D levels formulated for a mammal. In tortoises it causes irreversible kidney and shell damage.
never
FirefliesLucibufagins. A single firefly has killed adult lizards. This is the most dangerous item on any reptile list and it is the one keepers do not know about.
never
Fish caught from the wildThiaminase and parasite risk for turtles and aquatic species.
never
GarlicSame allium toxicity as onion, and more concentrated by weight.
never
Iceberg lettuceWater with no nutrition. It fills a reptile up in place of food that would have done something.
never
LeekAllium family. Same mechanism as onion and garlic.
never
OnionOrganosulphur compounds damage red blood cells. The whole allium family is out.
never
RhubarbOxalate load high enough to cause acute kidney injury.
never
Salty or seasoned human foodSalt, oil and seasoning. Crisps, chips, seasoned leftovers and processed meat are all out.
never
Wild-caught insectsPesticide residue and parasites, and the identification risk. Captive-bred feeders only.
never

Rare treats (1)

WaxwormsVery fatty. Useful for a underweight animal or for medicating, addictive otherwise. One or two, rarely.
rare treat

Occasional (5)

Bell pepperSafe, low oxalate, and the colour gets a refuser eating. A few small pieces a few times a week.
occasional
Butternut squashWell tolerated and a useful source of vitamin A precursors. Small cubes a few times a week.
occasional
KaleGood calcium, mild goitrogen. Rotate it. Twice a week.
occasional
MealwormsHard chitin shell and a poor calcium ratio. Fine as part of a varied feed, poor as the whole diet. A few, alongside better feeders.
occasional
SpinachOxalates bind dietary calcium, which is the last thing a reptile at risk of metabolic bone disease needs. A very small amount, rarely.
occasional

Everyday foods (6)

Black soldier fly larvaeUnusually high in calcium; one of the few feeders that does not need dusting. Several per feed.
everyday food
Collard greensOne of the best staple greens for herbivorous and omnivorous reptiles. Daily.
everyday food
CricketsA standard feeder. Gut-load them for 24 hours before offering, or you are feeding an empty shell. Sized no wider than the space between the animal's eyes.
everyday food
Dandelion greensExcellent calcium-to-phosphorus ratio and readily taken. Pick away from sprayed ground. Daily, for herbivorous species.
everyday food
Dubia roachesBetter calcium ratio and more meat per insect than crickets, and they cannot climb glass. Sized to the animal.
everyday food
Mustard greensGood calcium ratio; rotate with other greens. Several times a week.
everyday food

That food is not on our list. Reptile diets are narrower than they look — check the species guide, and ask an exotics vet before offering anything unfamiliar.

Dust feeders with a calcium supplement to the schedule in the species guide. A reptile can be eating well and still be starving of calcium.

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What it really costs

Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.

Work out the cost of a ball python

More Reptiles guides