Blackcap Basslet

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Saltwater Fish · Basslets

Blackcap Basslet

Gramma melacara

Deep-reef gramma dressed in magenta and blackIntermediate

Lifespan
5-10 years
Size
10 cm (4 in)
Social needs
One per tank (groups only in large systems added together); fights its own kind and lookalikes
Time
Daily feeding; weekly testing/changes
Cost
Medium-high
Diet
Carnivore (mysis, brine, marine pellets)

Overview

What is this animal?

  • The Blackcap Basslet is the Royal Gramma's deep-water Caribbean cousin, dressed in a single sheet of rich magenta with a jet-black cap that runs from the snout, over the crown, and back along the entire dorsal fin.
  • It grows slightly larger than its famous relative, reaching about 10 cm (4 in), and carries itself with noticeably more confidence.
  • In the wild it lives on steep reef walls at roughly 15-60 m (50-200 ft), far deeper than the Royal Gramma, orienting its belly to the nearest surface so it appears to hover upside-down beneath ledges before vanishing into crevices.
  • That deep-water origin makes wild specimens pricier and makes choosing a healthy, properly decompressed individual the most important decision you will make.
  • Once settled, it is hardy, long-lived, and fully reef-safe.

Temperament

  • The Blackcap Basslet is peaceful toward unrelated species but runs a notch feistier than the Royal Gramma, chasing intruders from its cave with real intent rather than pure bluff.
  • It is reef-safe and ignores corals and all but the tiniest ornamental shrimp.
  • In tanks of the size it is usually kept, house just one; conspecifics only coexist in a much larger system when introduced together.
  • Never pair it with a Royal Gramma or with dottybacks, because the similar shape and colours trigger persistent fighting in ordinary-sized systems.
  • With dissimilar, peaceful tankmates and plenty of rockwork it becomes a confident fixture, patrolling openly and hovering at odd angles beneath its favourite ledge.

A good fit for

  • Reef tanks with shaded, cave-rich rockwork
  • Keepers who loved the Royal Gramma and want a step up
  • Smaller marine systems from 30 gallons
  • Fans of upside-down ledge-hovering behaviour

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Deep-collected fish with swim-bladder damage — buy level swimmers that eat
  • Mixing with Royal Grammas or dottybacks (fighting)
  • Bright, bare aquascapes keep it hidden and stressed
  • Open-top tank leads to jumping
  • Costs noticeably more than a Royal Gramma

Enclosure

Minimum 110 litres (29 US gallons)

Must be housed alone. One per tank (groups only in large systems added together); fights its own kind and lookalikes

  • Give it a cycled aquarium of at least 110 L (30 gallons) with generous live rock stacked into caves, tunnels, and overhangs it can hang beneath.
  • Coming from dim, deep walls, it prefers shaded zones under ledges to a bright, open aquascape, and in a tank without cover it will simply stay hidden.
  • Keep salinity at 1.024-1.026, temperature 23-26°C (74-79°F), pH 8.1-8.4, and nitrate under 20 ppm (lower still in a coral-heavy reef).
  • A tight-fitting lid is non-negotiable, because like all grammas it is a proven jumper.
  • Arrange the rock to break lines of sight so it can hold a home cave without confronting every passing tankmate.

Check your enclosure

Supplies

Setup

  • Tank, stand and sump
  • Return pump and powerheads
  • Protein skimmer
  • Reef lighting
  • Rock and sand
  • Salt mix, refractometer and test kits
  • Quarantine tank

Ongoing

  • Frozen mysis shrimp
  • Frozen enriched brine shrimp
  • Small sinking marine pellet
  • Frozen chopped seafood blend
  • Vitamin or HUFA soaking supplement
  • Turkey baster for target-feeding near rockwork
  • Small thawing cup and strainer

Safe substrate: Aragonite sand · Dry or cured live rock · Bare bottom

Work out the cost

Care routine

Daily

  • Check salinity, temperature and flow
  • Check the lid
  • Feed
  • Head-count and look everyone over
  • Top up evaporation with fresh water

Weekly

  • Service the skimmer and filter socksevery 3 days
  • Check each fish still has a cave
  • Clean the glass
  • Test the water

Monthly

  • Water changeevery 2 weeks
  • Calibrate the refractometer
  • Check salt, RO/DI and reagents

Less often

  • Deep-clean pumps and powerheadsevery 3 months
  • Replace RO/DI filter mediaevery 6 months

Vet: Quarterly review with a territory check — every 3 months

Top resources for more info

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Diet

  • In the wild the Blackcap Basslet picks zooplankton and small crustaceans from the water column beside its wall.
  • In the aquarium feed frozen mysis, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood, and a quality sinking marine pellet, offered once or twice daily.
  • Freshly imported fish can be hesitant feeders, so drift frozen food near its cave until it eats confidently in the open.
  • A varied meaty diet keeps the magenta deep and the black cap crisp.
  • Feed small portions and check that faster tankmates are not intercepting every meal.

Health

  • Once established this is a hardy, disease-resistant fish that commonly lives 5-10 years.
  • The routine risks are marine ich and bacterial infection following stress, so quarantine new arrivals and keep parameters steady.
  • The species-specific risk sits at the point of purchase: wild fish are collected deep, and poorly decompressed specimens carry swim-bladder damage that shows as tilted swimming, floating, or listless sulking.
  • Only buy a fish that swims level and eats in front of you, and choose captive-bred stock (now produced by several breeders) whenever you can find it.
  • Persistent hiding and refused food are the early warning signs to act on quickly.

Is your enclosure big enough?

Minimum volume110 litres (29 US gallons)
CompanyMust be housed alone. One per tank (groups only in large systems added together); fights its own kind and lookalikes

Is this urgent?

In a reef, stability matters more than any single target number. A parameter moving fast does more damage than a parameter sitting slightly off.

Go now

Any detectable ammonia or nitriteWater change now with matched, mixed and aerated saltwater. Stop feeding. Directly toxic, and a marine system has less margin than a freshwater one.
Now
Temperature or salinity has moved sharplyCorrect slowly, over hours, not minutes. Check the heater and the top-off. The speed of the change does the damage. Correcting fast repeats the injury in the other direction.
Now
Rapid gilling, or a fish hanging in the flow breathing hardIncrease aeration and check temperature and salinity. Warm water holds less oxygen, and a heater failure shows up here first.
Now

Today

White spots, or a fine dusting like icing sugarIdentify which parasite before treating. Most reef tanks cannot be treated in place. The two common parasites look similar and need different handling; velvet can kill a tank in days.
Today
Corals closed for more than a day, or receding tissueTest alkalinity first, and compare it against the last reading rather than a target. Unstable alkalinity is the most commonly cited coral killer, and a swing shows up in the trend, never in a single point.
Today
A new fish added without quarantine now looks unwellRemove it to a separate system today if you can. Nearly every wipeout in a reef tank traces back to a skipped quarantine.
Today

Quarantine every new animal, including corals and inverts. It is the single practice that separates a reef that lasts from a reef that restarts.

This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it — and the time to find one is before you need one.

What it really costs

Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.

Bedding and substrate

In a marine system the rock and the sand are life support, and how you start them decides the first six months.

Safe

Aragonite sandThe standard marine substrate. Buffers pH and hosts the biology.
safe
Dry or cured live rockDry rock avoids importing pests but takes longer to mature. Cured rock is faster and riskier.
safe
Bare bottomCommon in high-flow systems. Easier to keep clean, but it removes a large part of the biological buffer.
safe

With a caveat

Deep sand bedsPowerful nutrient processing when they work and a sulphide release when they are disturbed. Choose shallow or deep deliberately, not by accident.
with a caveat
Uncured live rockIt will cycle the tank for you, and it will also bring in whatever was living in it.
with a caveat

Never

Silica play sandDoes not buffer, and it is commonly blamed for feeding diatom blooms in a new tank.
never
Any rock or decor of unknown originMetals and phosphate leach for months and are almost impossible to trace once the tank is running.
never

This is our general list for saltwater fish. We have not built one specific to Basslets yet.

My kit says 0.25 ppm. Is that dangerous?

A liquid kit measures total ammonia, but only the un-ionised fraction is really toxic, and that fraction is governed by pH and temperature — each whole pH unit multiplies it roughly tenfold. So the same reading can be nearly harmless in one tank and lethal in another; this works out which one you are in.

Compare with other animals

The same axes for every animal, side by side — the way the guides are written makes that a fair comparison rather than two articles.

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Basslets, side by side

Same axes, same care guides — the honest way to choose between types.

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