White Cloud Mountain Minnow

Pseudogastromyzon · Public domain — Wikimedia Commons (cropped)

Freshwater Fish · Danios & Minnows

White Cloud Mountain Minnow

Tanichthys albonubes

Cold-tolerant minnow for unheated tanksBeginner

Lifespan
3-5 years
Size
3-4 cm / 1.2-1.5 in
Social needs
Shoaler; keep 6+ together
Time
Low; daily feeding, weekly water change
Cost
Low
Diet
Omnivore; flakes, micro pellets, frozen foods

Overview

What is this animal?

  • The white cloud mountain minnow is a small, hardy fish from cool mountain streams near Guangzhou in southern China, marked with a red-and-iridescent stripe.
  • It is now rare in its native range but breeds readily and thrives in aquariums.
  • It is one of the few common community fish that needs no heater, tolerating cool room temperatures with ease.
  • Forgiving and beginner-friendly, it is a good first shoaling fish, though it dislikes prolonged tropical warmth.

Temperament

  • Peaceful, active and confident, white clouds shoal loosely and look best in good numbers, where males flare their fins at one another harmlessly.
  • They are too gentle to bother any reasonable tankmate.
  • They suit calm, cool-water communities and pair well with other temperate species.
  • Avoid housing them with warmth-loving tropicals whose needs conflict, or with large fish that may eat them.

A good fit for

  • Beginners and first aquariums
  • Unheated, cool-room or temperate setups
  • Outdoor ponds in mild climates
  • Peaceful cool-water community tanks

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Keeping them in warm tropical tanks long term
  • Keeping too few, dulling colour and behaviour
  • Open tanks they can jump from
  • Pairing with warmth-loving or large fish

Enclosure

Minimum 40 litres (11 US gallons) — for a group of 6

Cannot be kept alone. The minimum is 6, and the space above is for that group.

  • A shoal of six or more does well in 40 litres (10 gallons) or more, filtered, with no heater required.
  • They thrive at 16-22C and suffer at sustained tropical temperatures, making them well suited to unheated rooms and some outdoor ponds in mild climates.
  • They are active swimmers that appreciate length, gentle current and planted edges.
  • Tolerant of a wide range of water chemistry, they need only a stable, well-cycled tank and a secure lid, as they can jump.

Check your enclosure

Supplies

Setup

  • Tank and stand
  • Filter
  • Heater and thermometer
  • Substrate, plants and decor
  • Liquid test kit
  • Dechlorinator and starter supplies

Ongoing

  • Quality tropical flake or micro-pellet
  • Frozen daphnia
  • Frozen brine shrimp
  • Frozen or freeze-dried bloodworm
  • Spirulina or vegetable flake
  • Small feeding spoon for measured pinches
  • Fine net for removing leftovers

Safe substrate: Inert aquarium gravel · Fine, smooth sand · Aquasoil for planted tanks

Work out the cost

Care routine

Daily

  • Check temperature and equipment
  • Feed
  • Head-count and look everyone over

Weekly

  • Top up evaporationevery 3 days
  • Check the lid
  • Clean glass and clear algae
  • Test the water
  • Water change and gravel vacuum

Monthly

  • Trim and thin the plantsevery 2 weeks
  • Check supplies and reagent dates
  • Rinse the filter media

Less often

  • Replace chemical filter media (Carbon/Purigen)every 2 months

Vet: Quarterly temperature and stocking review — every 3 months

Top resources for more info

Independent creators and organisations we would send a friend to. We have no affiliation with any of them, and nothing here is sponsored. Links checked 2026-09-19.

YouTubers

Sites

Go deeper

Diet

  • White clouds are easy-going omnivores that feed at the surface and in midwater.
  • A quality flake or micro-pellet serves as a reliable staple, rotated with frozen or live daphnia, brine shrimp and bloodworm to support their colours.
  • Feed small amounts once or twice daily, only what is eaten quickly.
  • They forage actively and rarely refuse food, so measured portions and the occasional fasting day keep the water clean and the fish in good condition.

Health

  • Among the hardiest aquarium fish, white clouds suffer few ailments when kept cool and clean.
  • Most problems, such as ich or fin rot, follow overheating, poor water quality or stress rather than inherent fragility.
  • Keeping them at tropical temperatures long term shortens their lives and dulls their colour, so avoid heating the tank.
  • Quarantine new stock, maintain weekly partial water changes, and fit a lid to prevent jumps.

Is your enclosure big enough?

Minimum volume40 litres (11 US gallons)
CompanyCannot be kept alone. The minimum is 6, and the space above is for that group.

Is this urgent?

In a fish tank the patient is usually the water. Test before you treat — dosing a healthy tank for a disease it does not have makes things worse.

Go now

Any detectable ammonia or nitrite in a stocked tankLarge water change now with dechlorinated, temperature-matched water. Stop feeding. Test again in 12 hours. Both are directly toxic. How toxic the ammonia reading is depends on pH and temperature, so the same number can be harmless or lethal.
Now
Fish gasping at the surface, or crowding the filter outflowIncrease surface agitation immediately, then test the water. Either the oxygen has crashed or the gills are being chemically burned. Both are hours-scale problems.
Now
Sudden deaths, more than one fish in a dayTest ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and temperature before doing anything else. Do not add medication yet. Multiple simultaneous deaths point at the water or the equipment, not at a pathogen.
Now

Today

Flashing — repeatedly scraping against decor or substrateTest the water, then look closely for parasites. Irritation is either chemical or parasitic; the test tells you which before you medicate.
Today
White salt-grain spots over the body and finsBegin the appropriate treatment today and check the temperature. The parasite's life cycle is temperature-driven, and it multiplies with every cycle you wait.
Today

Soon

Clamped fins, hiding, or refusing food for more than two daysTest the water and review recent changes. Usually the earliest visible sign of a parameter drifting.
A few days

Never add a new fish to a tank that is not fully cycled, and never treat blind. A test kit is cheaper than the fish.

This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it — and the time to find one is before you need one.

What it really costs

Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.

Bedding and substrate

Substrate in an aquarium is a filter as much as a floor. Most of the biology lives in and on it.

Safe

Inert aquarium gravelRinse thoroughly before use. Grain size should be too large to swallow and too small to trap food.
safe
Fine, smooth sandCorrect for corydoras, kuhli loaches and anything that sifts. Their barbels wear away on sharp gravel.
safe
Aquasoil for planted tanksExcellent for plants, but it leaches ammonia for the first weeks. Cycle around it; do not stock into it.
safe
Bare bottomLegitimate for quarantine and grow-out tanks. Easy to clean, but it holds far less biological filtration.
safe

With a caveat

Crushed coral or aragoniteDeliberately raises hardness and pH. Correct for rift-lake cichlids, wrong for soft-water species.
with a caveat
Very deep sand bedsAnaerobic pockets form below about 5 cm in still sand. Either keep it shallow or keep it stirred.
with a caveat
Painted or coated gravelUsually fine, but coatings chip. Test a handful in a jar for a week first.
with a caveat

Never

Sharp or angular gravel with bottom-dwellersWears down barbels and leads to infection in corydoras and loaches.
never
Anything containing metal, limestone of unknown origin, or shells in a soft-water tankSlowly alters chemistry in ways that are hard to diagnose later.
never

This is our general list for freshwater fish. We have not built one specific to Danios & Minnows yet.

My kit says 0.25 ppm. Is that dangerous?

A liquid kit measures total ammonia, but only the un-ionised fraction is really toxic, and that fraction is governed by pH and temperature — each whole pH unit multiplies it roughly tenfold. So the same reading can be nearly harmless in one tank and lethal in another; this works out which one you are in.

Compare with other animals

The same axes for every animal, side by side — the way the guides are written makes that a fair comparison rather than two articles.

Compare with up to three other animals →

Keep going

Danios & Minnows, side by side

Same axes, same care guides — the honest way to choose between types.

See all Danios & Minnows side by side →

More Freshwater Fish guides