Pearl Gourami
Freshwater Fish · Gouramis

Pearl Gourami

Trichopodus leerii

Lace-patterned, peaceful centrepiece gouramiBeginner

Lifespan
4-6 years
Size
10-12cm
Social needs
Group of 4-6 with one male; or a single fish
Time
10-15 min daily; weekly water change
Cost
Low-Medium
Diet
Omnivore (flake, pellet, frozen foods)

Overview

What is this animal?

  • The pearl gourami is widely considered the most beautiful and best-behaved of the larger gouramis, dressed in white spangles over bronze with a black lateral line.
  • Mature males add a flame-orange throat.
  • It is hardy, peaceful, and forgiving — a genuinely beginner-suitable centrepiece fish for a planted community, provided the tank is large and calm enough for it.

Temperament

  • Among the gentlest large gouramis, pearls glide through the midwater and explore plants with their touch-sensitive feelers.
  • They are shy in bare tanks and confident in planted ones.
  • Pair them with peaceful tetras, rasboras, corydoras, and similar; avoid barbs and other nippers.
  • Males build bubble nests and display beautifully at breeding time.

A good fit for

  • A first centrepiece fish for a planted community
  • Keepers wanting calm, graceful tank presence
  • Communities of peaceful mid-sized fish
  • Beginners ready for a 100L+ aquarium

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Housing with fin-nippers that shred the feelers
  • Two males sparring in mid-sized tanks
  • Strong flow and choppy surfaces stressing them
  • Tanks under 100L cramping adults

Enclosure

Minimum 110 litres (29 US gallons)

Fine alone or with company. Group of 4-6 with one male; or a single fish

  • Provide at least 110 litres (29 gallons) with gentle flow, dense edge planting, and some floating cover; like all gouramis they are labyrinth breathers that sip air at a calm surface.
  • Keep the water at 24-28C.
  • Keep one male with a group of females, or a single fish in a community; two males will spar over territory in average tanks.
  • Soft to moderately hard, slightly acidic to neutral water suits them, though tank-bred fish adapt widely.

Check your enclosure

Supplies

Setup

  • Tank and stand
  • Filter
  • Heater and thermometer
  • Substrate, plants and decor
  • Liquid test kit
  • Dechlorinator and starter supplies

Ongoing

  • Quality tropical flake
  • Floating and slow-sinking micro-pellets
  • Frozen bloodworm, brine shrimp and daphnia
  • Spirulina or vegetable flake
  • Courgette for blanching
  • Veg clip
  • Fine net for removing leftovers

Safe substrate: Inert aquarium gravel · Fine, smooth sand · Aquasoil for planted tanks

Work out the cost

Care routine

Daily

  • Check temperature and equipment
  • Feed
  • Head-count and look everyone over

Weekly

  • Check the air layer above the waterevery 3 days
  • Top up evaporationevery 3 days
  • Clean glass and clear algae
  • Test the water
  • Water change and gravel vacuum

Monthly

  • Trim and thin the plantsevery 2 weeks
  • Check supplies and reagent dates
  • Rinse the filter media

Less often

  • Replace chemical filter media (Carbon/Purigen)every 2 months

Vet: Quarterly review with a surface-air check — every 3 months

Top resources for more info

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Diet

  • Pearl gouramis accept everything: quality flake or small pellets as the staple, rotated with frozen or live brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworm.
  • Some vegetable matter or spirulina rounds the diet out.
  • Feed once or twice daily only what is eaten within a couple of minutes.
  • They are deliberate, polite feeders, so check they are not outcompeted by faster tankmates.

Health

  • This is a robust species; most problems arrive with poor water quality or aggressive tankmates rather than disease susceptibility.
  • Standard quarantine of new arrivals covers the rest.
  • Watch the long, thread-like ventral feelers: fin-nipping species shred them, which is a welfare problem and an infection route.
  • Stable temperature and a calm surface keep the labyrinth organ happy.

Is your enclosure big enough?

Minimum volume110 litres (29 US gallons)
CompanyFine alone or with company. Group of 4-6 with one male; or a single fish

Is this urgent?

In a fish tank the patient is usually the water. Test before you treat — dosing a healthy tank for a disease it does not have makes things worse.

Go now

Any detectable ammonia or nitrite in a stocked tankLarge water change now with dechlorinated, temperature-matched water. Stop feeding. Test again in 12 hours. Both are directly toxic. How toxic the ammonia reading is depends on pH and temperature, so the same number can be harmless or lethal.
Now
Fish gasping at the surface, or crowding the filter outflowIncrease surface agitation immediately, then test the water. Either the oxygen has crashed or the gills are being chemically burned. Both are hours-scale problems.
Now
Sudden deaths, more than one fish in a dayTest ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and temperature before doing anything else. Do not add medication yet. Multiple simultaneous deaths point at the water or the equipment, not at a pathogen.
Now

Today

Flashing — repeatedly scraping against decor or substrateTest the water, then look closely for parasites. Irritation is either chemical or parasitic; the test tells you which before you medicate.
Today
White salt-grain spots over the body and finsBegin the appropriate treatment today and check the temperature. The parasite's life cycle is temperature-driven, and it multiplies with every cycle you wait.
Today

Soon

Clamped fins, hiding, or refusing food for more than two daysTest the water and review recent changes. Usually the earliest visible sign of a parameter drifting.
A few days

Never add a new fish to a tank that is not fully cycled, and never treat blind. A test kit is cheaper than the fish.

This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it — and the time to find one is before you need one.

What it really costs

Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.

Bedding and substrate

Substrate in an aquarium is a filter as much as a floor. Most of the biology lives in and on it.

Safe

Inert aquarium gravelRinse thoroughly before use. Grain size should be too large to swallow and too small to trap food.
safe
Fine, smooth sandCorrect for corydoras, kuhli loaches and anything that sifts. Their barbels wear away on sharp gravel.
safe
Aquasoil for planted tanksExcellent for plants, but it leaches ammonia for the first weeks. Cycle around it; do not stock into it.
safe
Bare bottomLegitimate for quarantine and grow-out tanks. Easy to clean, but it holds far less biological filtration.
safe

With a caveat

Crushed coral or aragoniteDeliberately raises hardness and pH. Correct for rift-lake cichlids, wrong for soft-water species.
with a caveat
Very deep sand bedsAnaerobic pockets form below about 5 cm in still sand. Either keep it shallow or keep it stirred.
with a caveat
Painted or coated gravelUsually fine, but coatings chip. Test a handful in a jar for a week first.
with a caveat

Never

Sharp or angular gravel with bottom-dwellersWears down barbels and leads to infection in corydoras and loaches.
never
Anything containing metal, limestone of unknown origin, or shells in a soft-water tankSlowly alters chemistry in ways that are hard to diagnose later.
never

This is our general list for freshwater fish. We have not built one specific to Gouramis yet.

My kit says 0.25 ppm. Is that dangerous?

A liquid kit measures total ammonia, but only the un-ionised fraction is really toxic, and that fraction is governed by pH and temperature — each whole pH unit multiplies it roughly tenfold. So the same reading can be nearly harmless in one tank and lethal in another; this works out which one you are in.

Compare with other animals

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Gouramis, side by side

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