Longnose Hawkfish

Haplochromis · CC BY-SA 3.0 — Wikimedia Commons (cropped)

Saltwater Fish · Hawkfish

Longnose Hawkfish

Oxycirrhites typus

Checkered perch-hunter that surveys the reefIntermediate

Lifespan
5-7 years
Size
10-13cm
Social needs
One hawkfish per tank
Time
15-20 min daily; reef-standard upkeep
Cost
Medium-High
Diet
Carnivore (frozen mysis, krill, chopped seafood)

Overview

What is this animal?

  • The longnose hawkfish wears a red-on-white crosshatch and a needle snout, and lives like its namesake: perched high on the reef, watching, then striking.
  • In the wild it sits in gorgonians and black corals at depth.
  • It is hardy, disease-resistant, and full of character — one of the most rewarding 'personality fish' in the hobby, with stocking caveats that need respecting.

Temperament

  • It is peaceful with fish too large to swallow but a genuine predator of small, slender fish and ornamental shrimp: firefish, small gobies, and cleaner shrimp are at real risk.
  • Stock around its mouth, not its manners.
  • Keep one hawkfish per tank; two will fight for the high perch.
  • With suitable tankmates it is bold, watchful, and quickly learns to anticipate feeding — often hopping perch to perch to track its keeper across the room.

A good fit for

  • Keepers who want an interactive character fish
  • Reefs with tall rockwork and branching decor
  • Communities of mid-sized, robust fish
  • Aquarists tired of delicate marine species

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Ornamental shrimp — they will be eaten
  • Tiny slender fish disappearing one by one
  • Open lids: hawkfish jump far and fast
  • Pairing two hawkfish over one prime perch

Enclosure

Minimum 150 litres (40 US gallons)

Must be housed alone. One hawkfish per tank

  • Provide 150 litres (40 gallons) or more with tall rockwork, branching structures, or gorgonian-like decor for perching; a hawkfish without lookout posts is a stressed hawkfish.
  • It rests on its pectoral fins rather than swimming constantly.
  • It is coral-safe and fine in reefs at standard parameters: 24-26C, salinity 1.024-1.026.
  • The lid must be tight — hawkfish are explosive jumpers when startled.

Check your enclosure

Supplies

Setup

  • Tank, stand and sump
  • Return pump and powerheads
  • Protein skimmer
  • Reef lighting
  • Rock and sand
  • Salt mix, refractometer and test kits
  • Quarantine tank

Ongoing

  • Frozen mysis shrimp
  • Frozen krill
  • Frozen enriched brine shrimp
  • Frozen chopped seafood blend
  • Marine carnivore pellets
  • Feeding tongs
  • Small thawing cup and strainer

Safe substrate: Aragonite sand · Dry or cured live rock · Bare bottom

Work out the cost

Care routine

Daily

  • Check salinity, temperature and flow
  • Check the lid
  • Feed
  • Head-count and look everyone over
  • Top up evaporation with fresh water

Weekly

  • Service the skimmer and filter socksevery 3 days
  • Clean the glass
  • Test the water

Monthly

  • Water changeevery 2 weeks
  • Calibrate the refractometer
  • Check salt, RO/DI and reagents

Less often

  • Deep-clean pumps and powerheadsevery 3 months
  • Replace RO/DI filter mediaevery 6 months

Vet: Quarterly review with a lid check — every 3 months

Top resources for more info

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Diet

  • Feed meaty foods once or twice daily: frozen mysis, krill, enriched brine, and chopped seafood, with marine carnivore pellets accepted in time.
  • The strike from a perch is fast and accurate.
  • Vary the menu; a hawkfish on one food sulks and fades.
  • They are unfussy eaters once settled, usually within days.

Health

  • Longnose hawkfish are among the tougher marine fish: thick-skinned, parasite-resistant, and unbothered by minor parameter wobbles that stress delicate species.
  • Quarantine remains best practice.
  • Most losses are jumping accidents or starvation in shipping-stressed new arrivals — confirm feeding at purchase.
  • Otherwise expect a long, robust aquarium life.

Is your enclosure big enough?

Minimum volume150 litres (40 US gallons)
CompanyMust be housed alone. One hawkfish per tank

Is this urgent?

In a reef, stability matters more than any single target number. A parameter moving fast does more damage than a parameter sitting slightly off.

Go now

Any detectable ammonia or nitriteWater change now with matched, mixed and aerated saltwater. Stop feeding. Directly toxic, and a marine system has less margin than a freshwater one.
Now
Temperature or salinity has moved sharplyCorrect slowly, over hours, not minutes. Check the heater and the top-off. The speed of the change does the damage. Correcting fast repeats the injury in the other direction.
Now
Rapid gilling, or a fish hanging in the flow breathing hardIncrease aeration and check temperature and salinity. Warm water holds less oxygen, and a heater failure shows up here first.
Now

Today

White spots, or a fine dusting like icing sugarIdentify which parasite before treating. Most reef tanks cannot be treated in place. The two common parasites look similar and need different handling; velvet can kill a tank in days.
Today
Corals closed for more than a day, or receding tissueTest alkalinity first, and compare it against the last reading rather than a target. Unstable alkalinity is the most commonly cited coral killer, and a swing shows up in the trend, never in a single point.
Today
A new fish added without quarantine now looks unwellRemove it to a separate system today if you can. Nearly every wipeout in a reef tank traces back to a skipped quarantine.
Today

Quarantine every new animal, including corals and inverts. It is the single practice that separates a reef that lasts from a reef that restarts.

This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it — and the time to find one is before you need one.

What it really costs

Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.

Bedding and substrate

In a marine system the rock and the sand are life support, and how you start them decides the first six months.

Safe

Aragonite sandThe standard marine substrate. Buffers pH and hosts the biology.
safe
Dry or cured live rockDry rock avoids importing pests but takes longer to mature. Cured rock is faster and riskier.
safe
Bare bottomCommon in high-flow systems. Easier to keep clean, but it removes a large part of the biological buffer.
safe

With a caveat

Deep sand bedsPowerful nutrient processing when they work and a sulphide release when they are disturbed. Choose shallow or deep deliberately, not by accident.
with a caveat
Uncured live rockIt will cycle the tank for you, and it will also bring in whatever was living in it.
with a caveat

Never

Silica play sandDoes not buffer, and it is commonly blamed for feeding diatom blooms in a new tank.
never
Any rock or decor of unknown originMetals and phosphate leach for months and are almost impossible to trace once the tank is running.
never

This is our general list for saltwater fish. We have not built one specific to Hawkfish yet.

My kit says 0.25 ppm. Is that dangerous?

A liquid kit measures total ammonia, but only the un-ionised fraction is really toxic, and that fraction is governed by pH and temperature — each whole pH unit multiplies it roughly tenfold. So the same reading can be nearly harmless in one tank and lethal in another; this works out which one you are in.

Compare with other animals

The same axes for every animal, side by side — the way the guides are written makes that a fair comparison rather than two articles.

Compare with up to three other animals →

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Hawkfish, side by side

Same axes, same care guides — the honest way to choose between types.

See all Hawkfish side by side →

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