
Leopard Gecko
Eublepharis macularius
Ground-dwelling desert gecko with eyelidsBeginner
- Lifespan
- 15-20 years
- Size
- 20-25 cm
- Social needs
- Solitary; house singly
- Time
- Low-Medium; daily checks, evening feeds
- Cost
- Medium
- Diet
- Insectivore (live insects)
Overview
What is this animal?
- The leopard gecko is a ground-dwelling, crepuscular lizard from the rocky scrublands of Central and South Asia.
- It is hardy, slow-moving and tolerant of gentle handling, which makes it a reasonable first reptile for a committed keeper.
- Unlike most geckos it has movable eyelids and lacks adhesive toe pads, so it cannot climb smooth glass.
- These geckos are long-lived, often reaching their late teens, so acquiring one is a real commitment.
- They are quiet and low-odour and need only modest space, but they still require precise heating and a properly furnished terrestrial vivarium to thrive.
Temperament
- Leopard geckos are calm and generally tolerant of handling once settled.
- They are most active at dawn, dusk and into the night, so expect a quiet animal during daylight hours.
- With patient, regular short handling sessions most become confident and rarely bite.
- They are solitary and should be housed singly.
- Males will fight, and mixed or same-sex groups frequently lead to stress, injury or competition over food and warm spots.
- Keeping one gecko per enclosure avoids these problems.
A good fit for
- First-time reptile keepers
- People wanting a hardy, handleable lizard
- Keepers with limited space
- Those who can commit 15+ years
Common mistakes to avoid
- Loose sand substrate contributing to impaction
- Skipping UVB and calcium supplementation
- Housing two together, causing fights
- Over-feeding fatty waxworms leading to obesity
Enclosure
Minimum 4,050 cm² of floor (628 sq in) · 90 × 45 × 45 cm
Must be housed alone. Solitary; house singly
- Provide a vivarium of at least 90x45cm floor area for one adult, larger if possible, with a tight-fitting lid and good ventilation.
- Establish a warm zone with a basking surface of about 30-33C and a cool end around 22-24C, all controlled by a thermostat.
- A low-output UVB tube (around 5-7%, T5 in a suitable enclosure) supports vitamin D3 synthesis and bone health and is now recommended despite older care advice.
- Offer at least three hides: a warm hide, a cool hide and a humid hide with damp moss to aid shedding.
- Use a solid or fine, particle-free substrate such as a bioactive soil mix or tile, especially for young animals or first setups, since deep loose sand alone can contribute to gut impaction.
- Spot-clean daily.
Supplies
Setup
- Enclosure
- Heating and thermostat
- Low-output UVB fixture and bulb
- Thermometers and hygrometer
- Substrate, hides including a humid hide, decor
Ongoing
- Complete powdered fruit-gecko diet (for cresteds, gargoyles, chahouas, mourning geckos)
- Live crickets, dubia roaches or black soldier fly larvae
- Plain calcium powder without D3
- Calcium with D3 plus a reptile multivitamin
- Feeder gut-load and a ventilated feeder tub
- Shallow ledge-mounted feeding cups
- Blunt-tipped feeding tongs
- Shallow water dish
Safe substrate: Topsoil and play sand mix for arid geckos · Coco fibre and orchid bark for tropical geckos · Paper towel
Care routine
Daily
- Check temperatures and humidity
- Fresh water bowl
- Look the animal over
- Mist the enclosure
- Spot-clean waste and uneaten food
Weekly
- Feed insects or prepared dietevery 2 days
- Check toes, tail tip and eyes after a shedevery 3 days
- Short handling session, species permittingevery 3 days
- Re-damp the humid hide
Monthly
- Weigh-inevery 2 weeks
- Deep-clean the enclosure
- Test thermostats, lamps and guards
Less often
- Refresh the substrateevery 3 months
- Replace the UVB lampevery 6 months
Vet: Annual exam and faecal check — every 12 months (every 6 months from 10 years old)
Top resources for more info
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Diet
- Leopard geckos are strict insectivores.
- Feed a rotation of appropriately sized live insects such as crickets, dubia roaches, locusts and black soldier fly larvae, reserving waxworms as an occasional treat because they are high in fat.
- Gut-load insects and dust them with calcium and a vitamin/D3 supplement on a regular schedule.
- Feed juveniles daily and adults every two to three days, offering insects no longer than the space between the eyes.
- Always provide a shallow dish of fresh water.
- Obesity from over-feeding fatty insects and metabolic bone disease from poor supplementation are the two most common diet-linked problems.
Health
- A healthy gecko has a plump tail (its fat store), clear eyes, alert behaviour and a good appetite.
- Watch for retained shed on the toes and around the eyes, which can constrict and cause infection; a humid hide and correct husbandry usually prevent it.
- Tail loss is a defensive response, and the regrown tail differs in shape and colour.
- Common ailments include metabolic bone disease, impaction, and respiratory infections from cold or damp conditions.
- A wobbly gait, soft jaw or weight loss warrants a veterinary visit.
- Use a vet experienced with exotics, as general practices may lack reptile expertise.
Is your enclosure big enough?
Is this urgent?
Small geckos dehydrate and lose condition quickly, and the tail is the fuel gauge.
Go now
Today
This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it — and the time to find one is before you need one.
Can a leopard gecko eat that?
Geckos split into two diets that share almost nothing: insectivores like the leopard gecko, and the fruit-and-insect species like the crested gecko. Check which one you have.
The full list
Never (13)
Rare treats (1)
Occasional (4)
Everyday foods (4)
That food is not on our list. Check which kind of gecko you have first — the two diets barely overlap — then ask an exotics vet.
Dust feeders with calcium to the schedule in the species guide, and keep a small dish of plain calcium available for insectivorous species.
What it really costs
Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.
Bedding and substrate
Match the substrate to the species' humidity, and never let a small gecko stand on anything it can swallow whole.
Safe
With a caveat
Never
A humid hide is not optional for most geckos, whatever the main substrate is. Most stuck-shed problems trace back to its absence.
Compare with other animals
The same axes for every animal, side by side — the way the guides are written makes that a fair comparison rather than two articles.
Geckos, side by side
Same axes, same care guides — the honest way to choose between types.
See all Geckos side by side →




