Californian Rabbit

Overview

• The Californian was developed in the 1920s by George West in Southern California as a dual-purpose meat and fur breed, combining Himalayan, Standard Chinchilla and New Zealand White stock.
• It is a large, muscular rabbit with a white body, near-black points on the nose, ears, feet and tail, and ruby-pink eyes.
• The pointed pattern is temperature-sensitive, so the markings darken in cold weather and fade in warm spells, and kits are born almost entirely white.

• As a companion it is calm, solidly built and less delicate than the dwarf and lop breeds, but at 3.6-4.8kg it needs space, food and equipment at large-rabbit scale.
• Because it remains a common commercial and 4-H breed, Californians turn up in rescues regularly, so check adoption before buying.
• They are not a low-effort starter pet, and they need the same decade-long commitment, companionship and rabbit-savvy vet care as any other rabbit.

Housing

• A pair needs a permanently accessible base of at least 3x2m (10x6ft) of floor space with 1m (3ft) of height, such as a rabbit-proofed room or large floor pen, plus daily access to a bigger exercise space.
• Traditional hutches and pet-shop cages are far too small for a breed this size, and a Californian must always be able to take several full hops, stand upright on its hind legs and stretch out flat.

• Their weight makes soft, non-slip flooring important, so avoid wire, bare hard floors and thin bedding, which cause sore hocks.
• Provide oversized litter trays, sturdy hides, tunnels and chew items, and keep cables and skirting protected indoors.

• Keep them cool and shaded, because rabbits struggle above about 25°C (77°F) and this heavy-bodied breed overheats faster than small ones.
• Ruby-eyed rabbits can also be sensitive to harsh bright light, so always offer dim retreats.

Diet

• Unlimited fresh grass hay must make up around 85% of the diet, with a daily adult-handful portion of varied leafy greens.
• Feed plain uniform pellets strictly measured at no more than an eggcupful (about 25g) per kilogram of body weight daily, and reduce that if weight creeps up.

• The breed was selected for fast growth and efficient feed conversion, so Californians gain fat quickly on free-fed pellets, muesli mixes or sugary treats.
• Obesity in a rabbit this heavy directly worsens sore hocks, grooming problems and gut trouble.

• Offer water in a heavy, tip-proof bowl as well as any bottle, since large rabbits drink a lot.
• Introduce new greens gradually and skip fruit except as an occasional tiny treat.

Health

• Sore hocks (pododermatitis) are the main breed-linked risk, driven by their body weight on hard or dirty flooring, so check the hind feet weekly.
• Gut stasis is an emergency in all rabbits, and any drop in appetite or droppings needs a vet the same day.
• Their white rump also shows soiling clearly, which helps you catch the wet fur that invites flystrike in warm months.

• Unlike the dwarfs and lops on this site, the Californian's longer commercial head shape makes congenital dental problems less common, but constant hay wear is still essential.
• Spay does, because uterine adenocarcinoma affects the majority of unspayed females by five or six years old, and neuter bucks for bonding.

• In the UK and Europe, vaccinate annually against myxomatosis, RHD1 and RHD2; in North America, ask your vet about the RHDV2 vaccine.
• Budget for larger drug doses at this body weight and choose a rabbit-experienced practice before you need one.

Temperament

• Californians are widely regarded as one of the calmer, steadier rabbit breeds, and well-socialised adults are placid, curious and tolerant of quiet company.
• They are still prey animals that generally dislike being lifted, so interact at floor level and let the rabbit come to you.

• Their hindquarters are powerful, and a struggling Californian can scratch a handler or injure its own spine, so children should never carry one.
• They suit patient households that enjoy calm, ground-based companionship rather than a cuddly lap pet.

• They are social and should live with a bonded, neutered companion rabbit.
• Most litter-train easily, learn routines quickly and become confident free-roam house rabbits when given consistent, gentle handling.